Last year Sam’s most underrated watch was the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, a world-class sports watch that the hype machine mostly ignored. This year we asked him again, and his answer came straight out of Watches & Wonders.
“For me it’s the JLC Master Control, the moon phase, stainless steel, blue dial. Looks a little bit like a 5712, obviously a different shape, but does look a bit like that. I think that was probably my favourite watch from Watches and Wonders. Don’t get to see that a lot in the mainstream, so I’d say that was my most underrated watch of 2026.”
What Jaeger-LeCoultre launched in 2026
At Watches & Wonders in April 2026, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Master Control Chronometre, a new take on its Master Control line. There are three models:
- Master Control Chronometre Date (Q4158120): 38 × 8.4mm, calibre 899.
- Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve (Q4168120): calibre 738.
- Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar (Q4178180): steel, blue-grey dial, moon phase, 39 × 9.2mm, calibre 868, 70 hours of power reserve.
The perpetual calendar is the one Sam means. It’s the only moon-phase model in the new line.
What’s new across the collection is the integrated steel bracelet. The cases are slimmer, and JLC has revived its in-house High Precision testing on top of COSC chronometer certification.
Why it reminds Sam of a Patek 5712
Put a blue dial, a moon phase and an integrated steel bracelet together and most collectors think of one watch: the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712. The JLC is round where the Nautilus has its porthole shape, but the feel on the wrist is in the same family.
The interesting part is that the JLC actually does more. It’s a full perpetual calendar, so it tracks months of different lengths and leap years. The 5712 shows the date, moon phase and power reserve but isn’t a perpetual. And at 9.2mm, the JLC is a properly thin watch for a calendar complication.
UK retailers list the Q4178180 at around £41,000. That’s serious money. But it’s a steel perpetual calendar on a bracelet from a manufacture with JLC’s history, at a time when steel Patek sports models trade far above retail.
Why it’s underrated
Sam’s point is simple: you don’t see it in the mainstream. Jaeger-LeCoultre has never chased hype. It’s the watchmaker’s watchmaker. Its calibre 920 powered the original Royal Oak “Jumbo”, the Nautilus 3700 and Vacheron’s 222. Yet it rarely gets the waiting-list buzz that follows Rolex, Patek and AP.
That’s the kind of watch people look back on and wish they’d bought. The design is restrained, the specification is serious, and it’ll still look right in twenty years.
Looking for something similar?
We don’t have the new Master Control in stock. If you’re after one, get in touch and we’ll keep an eye out. If the blue-dial, integrated-bracelet look is what appeals, last year’s underrated pick is in the shop right now:
- Vacheron Constantin Overseas 4520V, blue dial, 41mm, 2024: £27,500, with Vacheron’s quick-change strap system.
Or browse everything in stock at Kettle Club.
Watch Sam’s take
Here’s Sam’s pick on our Instagram: the most underrated watch of 2026. What would yours be? Our comments said Vacheron, and one vote went to the Monarch.
And for the other side of the coin, here’s Sam’s most disappointing watch of 2026.
